Nollaig nam Aonair MMXI ~ The (Great) Couch-surfing Christmas of 2011

A' Chiad: Silidh Ubhail no 'The Poet's Second Stair'  

It was a damp and foggy start to the day yet surprisingly - and no doubt unseasonably - warm. Mist hung low over the scene endlessly attempting to secure a hold on its surroundings only to be loosed by the gentle hands of a mild winter breeze rustling its way through the morning.                            

A warm, crackling fire dancing in the grate; soft blues playing in the background; a freshly decorated tree twinkling with lights beside a dark window spattered with rain; this is my world as I write to you tonight. It must be Christmastime!
I was going to write a post about all the visits and gatherings I've been on since I got here, but I figured this would be just as good and besides, there will no doubt be many more to write about after the holidays.
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Before I go any further, a note about the title:

Where I'm spending Christmas this year

I'm spending my Christmas in a small little village on the west side of Sleat, named Tarskavaig. where there are quite possibly - though I haven't counted - no more than 10 houses.  A good number of the staff from the college live here and, not surprisingly everyone knows everyone else's life story. The house that I'm staying in for the next two nights is that of a writer and bard, who I first officially met about a month ago. Just last week I ran into her again at a 'cafe' of sorts the college was testing out. We got chatting and I mentioned that I would be staying with another family here in Tarskavaig for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. At this, she replied [in Gaelic of  course] 'Oh, they have a rather small house as it is; if there doesn't end up being enough room, I live in Tarskavaig too and my door's always open. Feel free to walk in.'  It ended up working out perfectly, actually, because I would have been spending these days in a hostel in Broadford otherwise. If that's not serendipity, I don't know what is.

Though I've come across some amazingly kind and generous people, it never ceases to surprise me how hospitable people can be. When I arrived at Meg's house today, it was to learn that she and her son were packing to visit family in the Borders. Silidh Ubhail, or apple jelly, was written on a scrap of paper on the kitchen table, the remnants of some Christmas list I happened to glance at. As her son went off to deliver gifts to the community, I was left alone in the house and noticed amongst the piles of books and other scraps a note taped to the hall wall entitled 'The Poet's Second Stair'  Somehow, the two lines combined to stick in my head like the name of some weird melodrama.

A warning re: the Poet's second stair

Beware to guests a' bed upstairs who seek 

a quiet nightime relief of flowing;

who try to the bathroom to silently creep

with a desire for none to be knowing --

as the Poet's second stair will, with it's ample CREEK

set your cheeks a' rosy glowing! 

          - extract from the lost & bemused musings of               Mad Meic McManx

           (cynghannedly-challenged neo-bard)

When Meg returned from a few errands (I had arrived before she got home) the first words out of her mouth were 'Make yourself at home. If you see any food around, eat it; if you need the computer, it's upstairs; if you need to make any calls, there's the phone; feel free to start a fire in the woodstove; don't worry about taking off your shoes; just make sure the bed is made up when you leave.' And after a bite to eat and telling me to make sure to visit Donald John up the road, who is very fond of the fiddle, she headed out the door. It was as if I come to stay all the time!

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So, here I am on the second and last night at the home of a true Scottish bard (though she probably wouldn't tell you that), surrounded by two of four cats, finishing off this post I started yesterday and the bard herself isn't even here!
I was out for a walk today around Tarskavaig, only for about half an hour before it started raining. Having gotten a brief introduction to the people who live in the village from both Meg and the head of reception at Sabhal Mòr - who picked me up along the road getting here - yesterday, it was nice to wander and recognize the names of others from the college posted outside their house. Numbers aren't really used, I've learned, in Sleat because it's such a small area to begin with. The mailman knows everyone. He even walked straight into the kitchen today to drop off some letters! I still haven't made it to Donald John's house; perhaps it would be a nice thing to do tomorrow before I head off to Michael and Becca's house, given that it'll be Christmas Eve.

'Fairy Lights'

Since this will no doubt be the last post I make before Christmas, I wish the very merriest of Christmases to all of you who are reading this and your families, wherever they be. Though my Christmas this year will be something completely new and unknown, I am still fully confident that it will be filled with all the joy, love and peace that surrounds this season of hope. Here's praying that the same may be true for all of you! Nollaig Chridheil dhuibh uile, as they say in these parts! =)
Le gach deagh beannachd; blessings, Daniel.

Christmas Eve eve in Tarskavaig

Seachdain a' Siubhail: Transcriptions [19mh agus 21d dhen Dàmhair 2011]

Halò a h-uile duine, 

The expedition continues...

Cala Eirisgeigh ~ Eriskay Harbour

19mh Dàmhair 2011

Ràinig mi [a] Barraigh agus tha e àlainn. 'S e Barraigh an aite as eòlaiche na Alba Nuadh, tha mi a smaointinn. Choisich mi dhan Bàgh a' Chaisteil bhon Aird Mhòr air sgàth gun robh mi a smaointinn e ceithir no còig mìle, ach bha e mar seachd no ochd. Ach uell, bha e sgoinneil co-dhiùbh! Chunnaic mi [am] bradan Gàidhlig! 

Nuair a bha mi ann an Uibhist a' Deas, cha robh duine aig Tobha Mòr ach mi fhìn. Bha e neònach ach bha e math cuideachd. B' e latha garbh a bh' ann ach bha torr 'blankets' a' siud so bha mi blàth gu leòr. Tha an osdail seo cho brèagha. As deidh na h-osdailean Gatliff, tha an osdail seo mar Hilton. 

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   21d Dàmhair 2011

Uell, tha mi air am bata-aiseag eadar Bàgh a' Chaisteil agus Òban. Bithidh mi air an tìr mór ann an còig uairean! Bha Barraigh sgoinneil fhèin! Choisich mi gu Eòiligearraidh an-diugh agus bha na seallaidhean dìreach àlainn. 'Apart from' [A thuilleadh air] sin, bha mi ann an 'car accident' =) 

[NB: 'S e sgeulachd math a th' anns an latha siud ach tha mi ro sgìth an nochd airson a bhith sgrìobhadh ma dheidhinn. Cuir e anns mo cheann latha air choireigin eile...] 

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19th of October 2011

At the Barra hostel: 

Caisteal a' Chismul ~ Kisimul Castle

I arrived in Barra and it's stunning! Barra has to be the most similar place to Nova Scotia, I think. I walked to Castlebay from Aird Mhór, where the ferry docks, because I thought it was only four or five miles. It was actually about seven or eight! Oh well, it was great anyway. I saw the Gaelic salmon! [The Gaelic salmon is the symbol for Nova Scotia's Gaelic community]

When I was in South Uist, there wasn't anyone else at Howmore except myself. It was strange, but nice at the same time. It was a cold, wet and windy night but there were tons of blankets so I kept warm enough. This hostel is so nice. Compared to the Gatliff hostels, this is the Hilton! 

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21st of October 2011

On the ferry from Barra: 

Beatha Barrach ~ Barra Life

So, I'm on the ferry between Castlebay and Oban right now and will be on the mainland in five hours! Barra was great! I walked to Eoligarry today and the views were just beautiful! Apart from that, I was in a car accident. =)

[NB:  That's a great story, but I'm too tired right now to be writing about it. Remind me some other day...]
 

Na tràighean ~ The beaches

Seachdain a' Siubhail: Transcriptions [17mh dhen Dàmhair 2011]

Halò a h-uile duine,

Part two of my Hebridean adventures:

17mh Dàmhair 2011

I'm having an English day today. Sorry, Iain Tormod! 

So, here I am on what is the fourth day of my excursion through the Western Isles and the wind is howling unrelentlessly. I've taken shelter in the only real building here at the Leverburgh Pier - complete with two washrooms and a set of benches. The town of Leverburgh looked nice, but it's on the opposite side of the bay from the pier and I don't fancy the walk back. When I say this is the only building around, that's not quite true. There is also a restraunt which doesn't open until one o' clock (in about an hour) and a 'Butty Bus' where I just enjoyed a brilliant breakfast sandwich - egg and bacon - and tea for only £3.50. It's a neat little place. I was expecting him to operate out of a side window like a chip truck, but he's actually converted the inside of the bus into a diner, with a small kitchen at the back end. It looks completely driveable too, so it's fully self-contained; no outside propane tanks or anything like that. 

Cidhe Òb ~ Leverburgh Pier

Bruidhinn mi Gàidhlig an-diugh. As deoghaidh faisg air ceithir uairean aig an cidhe Òb, ghlac mi am bàta-aiseag gu Bearnaraigh. Bha i glé gharbh anns an t-Òb; bha 'hail' ann! Tha e brèagha ann an Bearnaraigh. Feumaidh mi post a' cur am màireach air sgàth nach deach mi a dhèanamh an-diugh. Dhìochuimhnich mi . Bithidh an oifis a' phuist fosgailte aig naoi uairean 's a mhadainn, so cuiridh mi post gu Canada am màireach. 

Air an traigh ~ On the beach

Co-dhiùbh, bhruidhinn mi Gàidhlig le duine a thoirt lioft dhomh dhan osdail. Chuala mi Gàidhlig anns a' bhùth ann am Bearnaraigh 'The Lobster Pot Cafe', ach nuair a fheuch mi i, fhreagair an té anns a' Bheurla. 'S e taigh dhubh a th' anns an osdail seo agus tha e làn. Tha teaghlach ann às an Òban agus tha iad a' baichadh a Steòrnabhagh airson a' Mhòd. Tha trì no ceithir daoine eile [ann] cuideachd agus boireannach à Dealauair (?)

Bha an-diugh inntinneach air sgàth nach tàinig am bus gu Reineagdail. Mar sin, dhraibh an duine à Sasainn mi faisg air Tairbeart agus ghlac mi am bus gu Leverburgh. Tha mi ag iarraidh a' coiseachd mun cuairt an eilean am màireach aig sia no seachd uairean so feumaidh mi 'dol dhan leabaidh an drasda, no 'soon.' 

Tha gille ann a' seo a' sealltainn mar Liam. Ach uell, oidhche mhath a h-uile duine! Chì mi am màireach sibh...uell, sgrìobhaidh mi dhuibh am màireach. Beannachd leibh!                     

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17th of October 2011

In the hostel at Berneray:

Osdail Bearnaraigh ~ Berneray Hostel

I spoke Gaelic today! After close to four hours at the Leverburgh pier, I caught the ferry to Berneray. It was pretty blustery in Leverburgh; there was hail. It's lovely in Berneray. I need to mail a letter tomorrow because I didn't do it today; I forgot. The post office will be open at nine in the morning so I'll send it to Canada then. 

Anyway, I spoke Gaelic with a man who gave me a lift to the hostel. I heard Gaelic in the store here, 'The Lobster Pot Cafe' but when I tried to speak it, the lady answered in English. 

The hostel here is an old black-house [Black houses were the traditional style of building in the highlands right up until the beginning of the twentieth century, if not later in some areas] and it's full. There's a family from Oban here, who are biking up to Stornoway for the Mod. There are three or four others as well, including a woman from Delaware. 

Éirigh Gréine ~ The Sunrise at Berneray

Today was interesting. The bus didn't come to Rhenigdale, so the man from England drove me close to Tarbert and I caught the bus to Leverburgh there. 

I want to walk around the island tomorrow at six or seven o' clock so I had better head to bed now, or soon anyway. 

There's a boy here who looks just like Liam! Anyway, good night everyone. I'll see you tomorrow...well, write to you anyway. Cheers!

Seachdain a' Siubhail: Transcriptions [14mh dhen Dàmhair 2011]

Halò a h-uile duine,

'S fhada bhon uair sin! It's been a while!

To follow are transcriptions of my journal entries while I was touring the Western Isles back in October. I tried to write in Gaelic the whole time, so I'll translate each entry afterwards:

  14mh Dàmhair 2011

"Rud a chuala mi nuair a bha mi a' siubhail: 'I don't like the motion of the boat; you don't like the motion of the ocean?'
      So, dh'fhàg mi Sabhal Mòr 's a mhadainn agus ghlach mi am bus bho Armadail gu Port Rìgh. As deoghaidh sin, fhuair mi airgead bhon Banca Dail Chluaidh ron a ghlach mi am bus gu Ùige. 'S e baile glé shnog a th' ann a' sin. 'S e am pàirt na h-eilein snog a th' ann an taobh tuath cuideachd. Chuala mi tòrr Gàidhlig  mar thà , agus tha gaol agam air. Tha mi 'n dòchas gun urrainn dhomh Gàidhlig a' cleachdadh mus tàinig [correction: mus tig] mi air ais. Chì sinn. Chuala mi tòrr  Beurla le blas a' Ghàidhlig agus bha e sgoinneil. Tha mi air mo dhòigh ann a' seo. Bithidh mise brònach nuair a tilleadh mi air ais dhan Sgitheanach. 
Tha mi ag éisteachd ri daoine a bruidhinn mu dheidhinn an eaglais aca. Tha mi smaointinn gu bheil an té na minisdear. Tha a h-uile duine air am bàta-aiseag seo eòlach air gach duine eile. 
Tha sinn ann am meadhan a' mhuir an-drasda agus chan urrainn dhomh rud sam bith fhaicinn. Tha e mìorbhaileach! =) 
Tha mi ag ionndrainn Ceap Breatainn pìos beag agus na daoine ann a' siud ach chì mi iad nuair a thillidh mi air ais. Bithidh sin math. 

Reinigeadal ~ Rhenigdale

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Ràinig mi aig osdail òigridh ann an Rhenigdale. Bha an slighe dhan seo doirbh is fada ach ràinig mi agus thog mi dealbh na dhà math. Bha an slighe sgoinneil! 
Tha trì daoine eile anns an osdail seo; da fear agus té. Chan eil Gàidhlig aca. Ach uell, 's dòcha am màireach . 'S e osdail snog a th' ann a' seo. Tha cidsin mór aige agus seòmar-suidhe glé bhlàth  is 'cozy.' Bithidh mi ann a' seo airson dà latha no trì oidhche. Bithidh e math, tha mi smaointinn. Tha gaol agam air na Hearadh mar sin tha mi 'n dòchas  gum bi gaol agam air na h-àiteachan eile cuideachd. Chì sinn. Tha mi a' tiormachadh na brògan agams' as sgàth [correction: air sgàth] gun robh an slighe beagan fliuch bho àm gu àm. Tha barrachd stocainnean agam so tha mi ceart gu leòr agus bithidh na brògan  agam tioram 's a mhadainn. Tha mise ag òl tì an drasda agus brot agus tha mi toilichte gu mór. =) 
Uell, oidhche mhath leibh, a' chàirdean. Chì mi am màireach sibh.                  

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14th of October 2011

On the ferry to Tarbert in Harris: 

"Something I heard while I was travelling: 'I don't like the motion of the boat; you don't like the motion of the ocean?'

So, I left Sabhal Mòr this morning and took the bus from Armadale to Portree. After that, I got some money from the Clydesdale Bank before catching the bus to Uig. Uig is a really nice town. The north side of the island is really nice too. I heard a lot of Gaelic already and I love it. I hope I`ll be able to use Gaelic  before I come back. We`ll see. I`ve heard a lot of English with a heavy Gaelic accent too. It`s awesome!  I`m quite content here. I`ll be sad when I have to head back to Skye. 

Air an slighe gu Reinigeadal

I`m listening to people speak about their church right now. I think the woman is the minister. Everyone on this ferry seems to know each other. We`re in the middle of the ocean right now and I can`t see a thing. It`s fantastic! =) 

I`m missing Cape Breton a little bit and the people there, but I`ll see them when I return, so no worries. 

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At Rhenigdale: 

I arrived at the youth hostel in Rhenigdale. The path here was long and hard but I made it and I got a few good pictures. It was such a sweet path! 

There are three other people at this hostel. Two men and a woman. [addition: The one was a young couple from Germany and the other, older man was from the south of England] None of them have Gaelic. Oh well, maybe tomorrow. This is a really nice hostel. It has a huge kitchen and a very warm and cozy living room. I'll be here for two days and three nights. It'll be good I think. I love Harris so I hope I'll love the other places too! We'll see. 

I'm drying out my shoes right now because the path was a little wet in spots. I have more socks so I'll be fine and my shoes will be dry by morning. I'm also quite happy as I'm here drinking tea and soup.

Well, good night friends. I'll see you tomorrow! =)

Cnocan a' Rheinigeadal ~ The Hills of Rhenigdale